Contents
2003 Trip Report
2003 Trip Photogallery
2001 Trip Report
Introduction
General Information
2005 Trip Itinerary
Important Notes
Gear List
Trans Niugini Tours offers a number of other adventure programs and treks
Introduction
Mt.Wilhelm is the highest peak in Papua New Guinea, at 4,509m/14,880ft. The Traverse from
Ambullua to Keglsugl offers a unique and challenging way to experience PNG's highest mountain.
This challenging alternative to the summit starts at about 2,000m/6,500ft in the remote village of
Ambullua, where the only access is by aircraft or by foot. The journey over Mt.Wilhelm presents
the opportunity to experience a culture still largely in tact, with a sing-sing (traditional dance)
and a night in a basic village guest house learning about and experiencing the culture first hand.
Then starting the trek, the path crosses rivers, climbs through moss forests (home of several birds
of paradise), alpine grasslands and glacial valleys. To add to this there are amazing views of
the North Coast and surrounding valleys. From the summit, the descent is via Kegsugl, which lies at the headwaters of the spectacular Simbu Gorge. This path goes past the picturesque Lakes Aunde and Piunde, which according to local creation stories are husband and wife. There is also the wreck of an American Bomber aircraft from WWII.
After the main trip, a charter aircraft will fly the group from Keglsugl in the Highlands to Madang
on the North Coast, where a range of adventurous or slothful activities are available.
General Information about Mt.Wilhelm and the Traverse
Mt. Wilhelm is named after Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany and was first climbed in the mid-1930's.
Mt. Wilhelm in the Simbu language is called Enduwa Kombugu, and in the Upper Jimi Language (the
language spoken in Ambullua) it is called Korikhl Khu. It covers an area of about 100 sq. km/40 sq.
miles. To the North is a steep drop off to the Ramu Valley (from over 4,000m/13,200ft to less than
600m/2,000ft in only 13km/8miles). Its steep glacial valleys were carved out during the
last ice-age (the Pleistocene period - approximately 10,000 years ago), the interface between the
grasslands and the forest marks the snowline from this period.
The mountain is climbed by both Papua New Guineans and International visitor alike via the normal
Keglsugl route.
The traverse was first
accomplished in 1998 by Bob Bates and Michael Bates, as well as three
guides from Ambullua and one from Keglsugl. After this ascent the
people of Ambullua built the track along the route taken by Michael and
Bob. In 2001 a small group of Australian University students
were the first group to ascend the mountain via this route. In 2003 the
first commercial expedition successfuly completed the traverse.
Both the 2001 and 2003
trip reports are available. An article was also written in the 2002 New
Zealand Alpine Journal about the 2001 trip ("The Track that Jack Built"
pp.45-49). There is also a photogallery of the 2003 trip.
Itinerary:
Wednesday September 28 2005:
Arrive Port Moresby. Transfer to the Air Niugini domestic flight. Fly to Mt.Hagen airport.
Transfer to the Hotel. Prepare gear, and meet others in the group as well as the leader over a nice dinner. Overnight Mt.Hagen.
Thursday 29 September 2005:
Transfer to Kagamuga aiport. Light aircraft flight of about 25 minutes to Ambullua. From the
airstrip it is approximately an hours walk to the "Korihkl Khu Guesthouse." Relax in the afternoon
enjoy a traditional sing-sing and experience the culture. After dinner, sit around the fire and
talk to the elders of the village about "taim bepo" (time before).
Friday 30 September 2005:
Awake early to start the trek. The first hour is through kau kau
(sweet potato) gardens, until
crossing the Kon River. From the Kon River it is approximately four
hours walk through alpine rainforest, covered in dense layers of moss.
The path follows a spur, in some places offering spectacular views of
the valleys below, until the first campsite is reached - Ongoltungi. We
spend the night in a bush hut, however there is room to pitch tents if
that is preferred.
Saturday 1 October 2005:
From Ongoltungi the path continues up the spur and through the
forest for a further two hours. We reach Hkelip, which has a small
creek (and swimming hole for the daring). We cross the creek and the
path follows a small gully. The gully marks the start of the alpine
grasslands.
Camp is set up after about one and a half hours walk in the grasslands
at a saddle called Khupoke,
approximately 3,600m/11,900ft. From here superb views are available to
the surrounding valleys and other large mountain ranges in the
highlands of PNG.
Sunday 2 October 2005:
Continuing on from Khupokhe, most of the day is spent trekking up and along one of the
mountain's main ridges affording spectacular
views of the surrounding mountains, with jagged peaks towering above the
lakes deep in the glacial valleys. It is at the top of this ridge, that the first glimpse of the summit is offered.
The path skirts one of the largest peaks called Werakai. This unclimbed giant towers above
the track which then descends into a valley leading us to our last campsite before the summit.
The campsite is marked by a large overhanging rock and has the local name of "Seeku."
Monday 3 October 2005:
Breaking camp at 4:30, it is an easy 20 minute to the end of the valley.
From here we encounter a
steep climb for the next two hours up the side of the main summit ridge. From this point
it is only half an hour to the summit. Reaching the summit at about 7am is the prime time as
the mountain-tops are usually clear at this time in the morning. The summit is marked by a rock
cairn and a trigonometric marker. Time is allowed for photos and conditions permitting
breathtaking clear views of the North Coast including the volcanic Karkar Island.
Leaving the summit, the traverse
continues down the normal route, past the wreck of a WWII Flying Fortress and the twin glacial lakes of
Aunde and Piunde at an elevation of 3,500m/11,500ft. Our last night on the mountain is spent
in a hut on the edge of Lake Piunde.
Often a pair of rare Salvadori Teals can be seen flying near and swimming on the lake.
Tuesday 4 October 2005:
From Piunde, it is an easy three hour walk to the village of Keglsugl at a height of about
2,500m/8,200ft, where our charter aircraft will be waiting to take us on the short but stunning flight
from Keglsugl to the coastal town of Madang. Upon arrival in Madang, we will be met by our vehicle for the transfer
to Malolo Plantation Lodge , approximately 45km along the coast from Madang, offering clear views
of Bagabag Island in the distance and Karkar Island looming in the foreground. Malolo offers a
relaxed atmosphere in which to wind down from the trek.
Wednesday 5 October 2005:
Relax at Malolo with a range of activities including day trekking, sea kayaking, village touring,
snorkeling, scuba diving, town touring or relaxing on the beach or around the pool.
Thursday 6 October 2005:
Again another day to further explore the North Coast, or just to relax and let those tired legs
have a bit of a rest before returning to hectic city life.
Friday October 7 2005:
Leave Malolo Plantation Lodge for Madang airport, where a flight takes us to Port Moresby with
connections to Cairns, Brisbane and Sydney. During the lay-over in Port Moresby a tour is offered exploring Port
Moresby.
Profile of the group leader
The group leader, Michael Bates, is an Australian who grew up and still lives and works in Papua New Guinea. He has climbed Mt.Wilhelm a total of 9 times and is the only person
outside of Ambullua to have accomplished the traverse four times.
There has not been a great deal of climbing in PNG for the past 20-30 years and so as a result
Michael was the first person in the last 20 or so years to climb Mt.Kubor (PNG's fourth highest
mountain) as well as a traverse along the Mt.Hagen Range. Michael has also on several occasions
climbed both peaks of Mt.Giluwe (PNG's second highest mountain), as well as several other minor mountains.
Other important notes:
Gear List:
-
Water proof tent with floor (and ground sheet preferable)
-
Wet weather gear, including waterproof jacket and overpants
-
Sleeping bag, rated to at least -5C/25F (it often snows on the summit, and heavy frosts at Seeku are not uncommon)
-
Sleeping mat, airmatress (e.g. thermarest) is better than just foam
-
Good Hiking Pack (about 65L) - to carry sleeping bag, tent etc.
-
Travel or duffle bag (to store clothes not needed on the mountain)
-
Small daypack (to carry water, camera etc.)
-
Liner bags (to keep gear dry)
-
Hiking boots
-
Thick Outer Socks
-
Sock liners
-
Sunhat
-
Sunglasses
-
Water Containers
-
Warm Mittens &/or gloves
-
Ski hat
-
Pile Jacket (mid-weight)
-
Pile Pants (mid-weight)
-
Hiking shorts and shirts
-
Thermal Underwear
-
Personal toilettries (i.e. toothbrush, soap, sunscreen, lip balm, toilet paper etc. also include a
personal first-aid kit)
-
Neat casual clothes (for travel days, and days spent in Madang and Mt.Hagen)
-
Gaiters (optional)
-
Walking poles (optional)
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